On Feb 5, 2024 we visited the Varadaraja Perumal Temple in Kanchipuram, #43 amongst the 108 Divya Desams. Krishnan and I have visited this temple separately several times, especially me because my Athai (dad’s sister) and Athimber live near this temple. Ofcourse at that time I didn’t know the significance of this magnificent temple. Krishnan and I visited this temple in 2019 to get the Athi Varadar’s darshan.
Sthala Puranam of Thirukkachi Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple
Bhagwan Brahma performed a yagna (ritual) at this site. The Utsavar Murti Devaraja Perumal was consecrated by Bhagwan Brahma and the massive Varadharaja Perumal murti was originally made from the Athi tree (fig). It was secreted away during the Mughal invasions and a stone statue replaced it. Later the original Athi Varadar was accidentally found when the Anantha Saras (temple tank) was emptied. That’s how the tradition of bringing out the original Athi Varadar every 40 years began.
It is believed that the Varadaraja Perumal Temple was initially built by the Pallava King Nandivarman II in the 8thCentury CE. Thirumangai Alvar’s works along with the inscriptions found at the temple corroborate the history of the Pallavas during the 7th and 8th centuries.
Then the current temple was further built during the reign of the Chola king Kulothunga III in the 12th century, around 1191 CE. The main temple and the gopuram were constructed during this time. Later additions and renovations were made by the Vijayanagara Empire in the 13th or early 14th century, which further expanded and beautified the temple complex.
The 100 pillar mandapam (hall) is located in the temple’s second courtyard and was constructed during the reign of the Vijayanagara Empire. The pillars are exquisitely carved in the form of horses and mystical creatures or Yazhis that are ridden by warriors. Every single pillar is unique. The Mandapam has twelve link chains that hang from the ceiling with the lowest link in the form of a bell. These chains are carved out of a single piece of stone with no gaps or joints in those chains, a true architectural marvel.
Bhagwan Vishnu’s consort goddess Lakshmi, is worshiped as Perundevi Thayar or Amruthavalli Thayar in this temple. As always we first visit her Sannidhi and get her permission to visit Varadar. Here you will find a lady grinding fresh Turmeric and it’s very auspicious for married women to get some turmeric as Thayar Prasadam.
Next we get the darshan of Yoga Narasimhar, before climbing a flight of stairs to get Varadaraja Perumal’s darshan. The granite murti of Varadaraja Perumal is almost 9 ft tall… and HE is smiling. He is adorned with two Shaligrama Malas and one Sahasranama Mala. As you enter the outer chamber you will see the walls filled with murals… sadly they are fading. The murals depict Vishnu’s avatars and Divya Desams.
As you exit after getting Varadaraja Perumal’s darshan, you see a small Sannidhi for Dhanvantri. There is also a Sannidhi for Bhagwan Rama and then on the outside a smaller temple for Chakratalvar. Here the Chakratalvar is with six arms.
The Legend of the Lizards
After offering prayers to Dhanvantri one comes across another major attraction in the temple – an overhead panel with a golden and a silver lizard along with the sun and the moon. You climb a set of stairs and touch the lizards, sun and moon to cure oneself of chronic illnesses and gain prosperity. The legend goes that there were two disciples of Sage Gautam who were cursed by him to become lizards, as they had allowed a lizard to fall in the holy water used for the puja. They came to this temple and stayed here as lizards. It’s believed that Indra Deva was relieved of his curse to roam the earth as an elephant at this temple. The lizards were witness to Indra Deva’s struggle and they attained Moksha as well, and hence Indra Deva installed them here to help other devotees.
A short video of the temple after entering inside –
Do visit the temple… we couldn’t see the 100 pillar mandapam and a few other Sannidhis during this visit, but had an amazing darshan of Varadaraja Perumal. We stood on the side as the Bhattar did the archanai and I just couldn’t take my eyes off the smile on Perumal’s face. Am still seeing that smile.
The only complaint I have as always is the cleanliness inside the temple. Cobwebs hang from everywhere. HRCE is simply collecting money without spending it on the upkeep of the precious murals, inscriptions and sculptures inside the temple.
Note – always give the money to the Bhattar (priest) if the temple is under HRCE. They get paid a pittance.
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