Feb 9, 2024 – Mayavaram aka Mayiladuthurai
We were staying in Mayiladuthurai from Feb 7th till the 11th and decided to visit the 11 Divya Desams in Thiru Nangur (very near Mayiladuthurai) on Feb 9th. To that end we started really early by 6.30 am so that we could reach the first temple by 7 am.
Foggy Mornings
The fog seems to be chasing us everywhere ! It was a beautiful morning but foggy. This is the first time am experiencing fog without any cold weather. I always thought fog happened because of the cold, and smog happened because the smoke couldn’t escape anywhere :).
We were to meet the guide at the first temple called as Thiru Annan Perumal Kovil. We reached the temple by 6.55 am and we could hear the Thirupaavai being played over the speaker. As we walked towards the temple, we realised that the Bhattar had not opened the doors yet. We came out and waited for the guide who came within a few minutes. She said the Bhattar will come only by 7.30 am so we could just go to the next temple.
1. Thiru Annan Perumal Kovil
A King named Swethan, the son of Thundu Maran of the Surya dynasty feared early death. He sought the help of “Maruthuva Maharishi”, the son of Surya Deva. The Maharishi instructed Swethan to chant the “Mrithyunjaya Mantram” while sitting under the Vilva Tree found in the south bank of the pushkarani. It is believed that Bhagwan Vishnu blessed the King with a long life. This temple is also known as South Tirupati.
The Moolavar (Main deity) is Narayanan or Kannan and considered as the elder brother of Tirupati Balaji. He gives darshan in the standing pose or Nindra Thirukolam along with Sridevi and Bhudevi. The Utsavar (the deity who is taken out on processions etc) is Srinivasa Perumal. Thayar is Alarmel Mangai and Ustavar is Padmavati.
The other interesting fact is Thirumangai Alvar met his future wife Kumuthavalli Nachiyar in this temple.
Thiru Annan Perumal Kovil is the 28th Divya Desam. We came back and had darshan at the end of our tour.
The first Divya Desam Kovil that we could enter was Sri Varadaraja Perumal Kovil again in Thiru Nangur. All these 11 temples are near each other. As we drove to the Varadaraja Perumal Kovil, the entire street was decorated with beautiful kolams in preparation for Thirumangai Alvar’s purapadu. It’s a three day event where Thirumangai Alvar comes to all the 11 temples and the conclusion of the celebration is with 11 Garuda Sevai at the Thiru Manimada Kovil.
2.Thiru Manikkoodam Kovil
The Varadaraja Perumal Kovil is also known as Thiru Manikkoodam Kovil. Just like Bhagwan Shiv has the moon and the river Ganges, in this temple, Bhagwan Vishnu gives darshan with the Moon and Garuda. The presiding deity, Varadaraja perumal is housed in the Garba Griha in a standing posture, facing east. Alongwith Varadaraja Perumal are his two consorts, Sridevi (also called as Thirumaamangal Nachiyar) and Bhudevi.
The Bhattar was making preparations to receive Thirumangai Alvar during his purapadu, so we could only get the darshan of Varadaraja Perumal, not his Prasadam or flowers etc.
By 7.35 am, we reached the next Divya Desam temple – Thiru Rajagopala Perumal Kovil.
3. Thiru Kaavalampadi aka Thiru Rajagopala Perumal Kovil
In this temple Dwarkadhish Bhagwan Krishna gives darshan as Raja Gopala Perumal along with Rukmani and Satyabhama. Visiting this temple is like visiting Dwarka itself !! Here we also find Vishvaksena, the son of Varuna Deva and Kundalai, and the commander-in-chief of Maha Vishnu’s army. Legend also is that Bhagwan Shiva was relieved of his Brahma Hathi dosha here.
Madavaragal Mangai and Sengamala Nachiyar are the two consorts of Rajagopala Perumal with their own temples within the same complex. Garuda stands right opposite the main temple as is the custom. The Gopuram of this temple is three-tiered.
We met Sudarshan (Krishnan’s cousin) at this temple as he was taking part in the Thirumangai Azhvar’s purapadu. When we had met him at Chidambaram, he told us to visit all the Thirunangur temples on Feb 9th as the eleven garuda sevai festival will bring huge crowds from Feb 10th onwards.
Thirumangai Azhvar Mangalasasana Utsavam
Do read my earlier blog – 108 Divya Desams, to get the context regarding the Alvars.
Thirumangai Azhvar’s mangalasasana utsavam is celebrated annually. It starts on the day of “Thai” amavasya and goes on for three days. The festival murtis of Thirumangai Alvar and his consort Kumudavalli Nachiyar are brought on the Hamsa Vahana (Swan Palanquin) to each of the 11 temples in Thirunangur. The verses from the Naalayira Divya Prabandam (4000 verses dedicated to Maha Vishnu) dedicated to each of the 11 temples are chanted in the respective temple. The festival is concluded at Thirumanimada Kovil dedicated to Badrinarayana.
This festival draws thousands of devotees to Thirunangur annually.
We were blessed to enter this temple when Thirumangai Alvar’s purapadu was there. Here is a short video of his palanquin being taken around.
4. Thiru Kalyana Ranganathar Kovil
By 8.20 am we had reached Thirunagari, the birth place of Thirumangai Alvar and the next Divya Desam called Thiru Kalyana Ranganathar Kovil. Thirumangai Alvar has a Sannidhi here and the festival starts from this temple.
It is one of the 108 Divya Desams where Mahavishnu is worshipped as Vedarajan and his consort Lakshmi as Amruthavalli. The temple is the birthplace of Thirumangai Alvar and his purapadu starts from here. We were the only people in the temple so were blessed to have a beautiful darshan.
The temple has a seven-tiered rajagopuram, the temple tower or gateway tower. It is believed to have been originally built by the Cholas, with later additions by the Vijayanagara and Thanjavur Nayak kings. Mahavishnu appeared to Thirumangai Alvar as Vedarajan and has granted him the boon to get married to his beloved Sri Kumudvalli Nachiyar. Thirumangai Alvar requested Mahavishnu to remain on Earth in this place and hence Vedarajan became Kalyana Ranganathar to bless his devotees to this day.
5. Thiru Parthasarathy Perumal Kovil aka Thiru Paarthanpalli
Arjuna, the Pandava brother closest to Sri Krishnan is known as Partha or Parthan in Tamil. He got Krishna’s darshan here so Mahavishnu is known as Parthasarathy (the charioteer, Sarathy, of Partha, Arjuna). The more you understand the meaning behind the Indian names, the more you fall in love with them.
Moolavar (main murti) and Utsavar (travelling murti) along with Periya Pirati, Bhoomi piratti and Neeladevi are present here. Neeladevi happens to be Jambavan’s (the bear in Ramayana) daughter. Krishna marries her in Dwapara Yuga since he couldn’t marry her as Bhagwan Rama. The Vimaanam (the top of the temple spire) is known as Narayana Vimaanam.
In this temple there is a utsavar murti of Kolavalli Raman who has the Sangu (Conch Shell), Chakram (Vishnu’s flying disc), a Ghadai (mace), Villu (Bow) and Ambu (arrow) in his hands. For all those who feel South India has nothing to do with Bhagwan Ram should visit several temples like this to know the truth.
6. Arimeya Vinnagaram or Sri Kuda Maadu Koothan Kovil
Right across from this beautiful temple is the Sri Kuda Maada Koothan Kovil, the next Divya Desam.
This temple is also known as Arimeya Vinnagaram or Sri Kuda Maadu Koothan Kovil . The Presiding deity of this temple is Sri Kuda Maadu Koothan Perumal, basically Bhagwan Krishna.
It is believed that after the Mahabharata war, Bhagwan Sri Krishna came here from Dwarka. On his way back to Dwarka, Sage Uthangar stopped and asked him about the war. Krishna told him the Pandavas won the war and Kauravas lost it. When asked again about the war, Krishna told the sage that the Pandavas won due to their karma or fate. When the sage persisted on why the Pandavas won, Krishna gave the sage a vision of his Viswaroopam. That calmed the sage down and he asked for a boon (quite a persistent sage!!). Sage Uthangar wanted water to be available at any time of his choice since this area didn’t get enough water.
Krishna granted him the boon. A few days later when the sage felt thirsty he thought of Krishna and a little boy came down the road with water in a pot. The sage didn’t consume that water thinking the boy might be of a lower class than him. Another man came by with water, and once again the sage refused to drink that water. Finally Krishna appeared and told him, that man was Indra Deva and he was carrying Amritam. Just as the sage couldn’t get a drop of Amritam, due to his fate, the Pandavas won the war due to their fate or past life karmas.
Since Dwarkadhish Krishna is a great dancer, the name of the temple is actually “Kudam–Aada–Koothan” – Kudam is a pot, Aada is to dance – so Krishna danced his celestial dance here !!!! hence Kuda Maada Koothan.
The temple walls have beautiful paintings from the dasavataram. The moolavar murti is Kudamaadukoothan in a seated posture and the Thayar Amritaghatavalli is housed in a separate sanctum. The Theertham is Amrita Theertham and the Vimanam Uchasruga Vimanam.
By 10.20 am we were at the next Divya Desam temple – Thiru ManiMaada Kovil aka Thiru Narayanan Kovil. It’s here that the eleven garuda sevai would happen during the Thirumangai Alvar purapadu.
7. Thiru Manimaada Kovil
All the 11 Divya desams in Thirunangur have a connection to Bhagwan Shiva as Rudra. He was inconsolable after the Daksha Yagam where Sati was consumed as part of the offerings. Rudra Thandavam, or the dance of destruction is performed by Shiva and he decapitates Daksha.
The devas went and requested Mahavishnu to help in quelling Shiva’s anger and to get rid of his Brahmahathi Roshan caused by decapitating Daksha. Mahavishnu agreed and came here from Badrinath. This is the first place that Badri Narayanan came and gave darshan to Rudra Shiva. Hence the name of the temple tank is Rudra Teertham.
Interestingly, it is believed that Badri Narayanan came here on a chariot and not on his vaahanam, Garuda. The temple is thus shaped like a chariot and the eleven garuda sevai utsavam is held here. Perumal here is in the sitting posture with the prayoga chakram in his hand. Garuda Bhagwan is not near the dwajasthambam but instead at Perumal’s feet in the garbhagriham. Badri Narayanan gives darshan alongwith Pundarika Valli Thayar.
8. Vann Purushothaman Kovil
The next temple we visited was the Vann Purushothaman Kovil. It is believed that MahaVishnu came here from Ayodhya… yet another connection to Bhagwan Ram. Continuing the connection, the teertham is called Thirupaarkadal Teertham and the Vimanam is called the Sanjeevi Vigraha Vimanam. Remember, Hanuman brought the Sanjeevi herb to resuscitate Ram and Lakshman during the war with Ravana. Why Purushothaman ? Maryada Purushotham Raja Ramchandra is the greatest amongst men hence the name. So beautiful.
9. Thiru Sempon Sei Kovil
Our next stop was at Thiru Sempon Sei Kovil… the connection to Bhagwan Rama just keeps on coming up.
In order to expiate himself of the Brahamhathi dosham, Bhagwan Ram was advised to do a penance called goprasavam (born of a cow) at this place. At that time, this place was the ashram of Sage Drudanetrar. Bhagwan Ram made a murti of a cow using gold and sat inside it for four days as prescribed. Once the penance was done, he gave the golden cow and made many other donations to Sage Drudanetrar. Rather than keeping all the wealth to himself (like many of us would do), the sage built this temple. The shining red lustre of pure gold that this temple was made of, gives the place the name – Sem-pon-sei (made of pure gold).
The Moolavar is Sempon Aranganar, or Rangathar who was worshipped by Rama in Ayodhya before being brought to Srirangam by Vibhishana.
Worshipping at this temple is equivalent to worshipping at Srirangam, Tirupati and Kanchipuram, put together.
10. Thiru Vaikuntanatha Perumal Kovil
This temple is opposite Krishnan’s cousin Sudarshan’s in-laws place. We first went in to have the darshan before going over to their place and Vidhya, his wife again fed us awesome food. I can still remember the spread we ate at her house in Chidambaram two days before this. Shamelessly, I collected some lemon pickle as well. Next time, we will just invite ourselves over because the food is so tasty. Vidhya is truly gifted.
Legend has it that in this temple, Bhagwan Vishnu presents himself with his consorts Sridevi, Bhudevi and Nila Devi, as well as Adiseshan, as He would in Vaikuntam. Swetaketu, a descendant of the Ikshavaku dynasty, and thereby a descendant of Bhagwan Rama, reached the first level of Vaikuntam post his demise. When he felt hungry he realised something was wrong and ask Sage Narada as to what went wrong. Sage Narada asked him to do more penance and he chose this place.
As a result, Bhagwan Vishnu came to this place, in the same form as he is in Vaikuntam – in a seated posture, one leg folded, one hand on Adiseshan and another hand showing the Abhaya Varada hastam. Hence this place is also known as Thiru Vaikunta Vinnagaram.
11. Thiru Madhava Perumal Kovil
This is the location of the celestial wedding of Perumal and Thayar as witnessed by all the Devas. Hence Perumal here is also called as Devanayakar. Thayar’s other name here is Kadalmagal Nachiyar, denoting her origin from the ocean.
The moolavar here is Devanayakar, also called Madhava Perumal. He is in a standing posture accompanied by Sri Devi and Bhoodevi. It is also believed Sage Vasishta spent considerable time in this place.
There are several other temples to visit in Mayiladuthurai, Thirunangur and Sirkazhi. But we just returned back to the hotel after getting the darshan at Annan Kovil. The Bhattar was present this time and we had a beautiful darshan.
The Divya Desams are a mix of beautiful architecture, spirituality and Bhakti … as far as I am concerned, I keep looking for things that showcase the unity of our Bharat. Every temple is another link in the chain…. It also brings a deep reverence to the great Kingdoms that ruled over our land. They built “up” the places of worship and knowledge centres even as they fought with each other for expansion of their kingdom. Says something about our great past. And then you wonder, how did we fall from those heights :(.
Sarvam Vishnumayam Jagat. HE knows and HE shall take care !!
#KrishnansTempleTrails
Very happy to read mam. 🙏
Nice write up .is it possible to share the temple opening times and the guide name and phone number if possible please